Schwan broke into the fashion world at the age of 16, working under the legendary Quincy Jones and stylizing the looks of burgeoning hip-hop acts like Kris Kross and Tamia. And although her initiation began in the that world, her resume also includes styling everyone from Bette Midler to Courtney Love. "I've always been able to reach out to different genres and age groups," says Schwan. "It's something that I really pride myself on because I don't feel like I fit into any category."
Rihanna's Transition From Hardcore
NIKI SCHWAN: "I think that Rihanna had the biggest transition this year. When they launched her she was this pretty and talented girl. Then they did this massive makeover, Mariel [Haenn] came on-board. They really went hard and cut her hair off- she was hardcore, dominatrix and s&m and she really made that a style. In 2010 I think she decided that she wanted to make a drastic change and she went from wearing all black to having bright red hair, bright red lipstick, bright red everything. Style-wise, she didn't have an 'it' moment but I think musician-wise, she had the biggest transition. She went from wearing only spikes and wild leather to wearing flowers and tiaras and dancing around. A year ago, Rihanna wouldn't be caught dead in a tiara. In some ways im not sure if i like it, it's almost clown like... but she made a statement this year."
Drake At Lil Wayne's Post-Jail Party
NIKI SCHWAN: "I worked with Drake on his Vibe cover last year. He was so anti-fashion that it was a little bit annoying. I was really disappointed that he let someone else decide for him what he was and wasn't going to wear. How can he be a superstar for life if you don't have a feel for what your style is? It hindered my perception of him because I thought he was so great. Then I saw him on the red carpet at Lil Wayne's coming out party in a Tom Ford suit. I was so impressed with him. He came out like a different man. Maybe he has a different stylist, or maybe hes getting comfortable with that superstar status. This moment put Drake on the map."
The 'Glee' Cast's School-Days Look
NIKI SCHWAN: "I think 'Glee' brought back the whole school-girl trend. I have seen so many mini skirts and sweaters and cardigans that I believe were brought back by this [show]. I think its success has really inspired a lot of young people. I have a 6 year old who loves to sing and dance. She loves Beyonce, but 'Glee' is her thing. Their style is clean-cut, old-fashioned and I think it inspires young people to believe that they can have this way about them without being super sexy or super slutty. I love that it brought back collegiate style. I think when you look back at 2010 in music, we will always remember 'Glee.'"
Drake At Lil Wayne's Post-Jail Party
NIKI SCHWAN: "I worked with Drake on his Vibe cover last year. He was so anti-fashion that it was a little bit annoying. I was really disappointed that he let someone else decide for him what he was and wasn't going to wear. How can he be a superstar for life if you don't have a feel for what your style is? It hindered my perception of him because I thought he was so great. Then I saw him on the red carpet at Lil Wayne's coming out party in a Tom Ford suit. I was so impressed with him. He came out like a different man. Maybe he has a different stylist, or maybe hes getting comfortable with that superstar status. This moment put Drake on the map."
The 'Glee' Cast's School-Days Look
NIKI SCHWAN: "I think 'Glee' brought back the whole school-girl trend. I have seen so many mini skirts and sweaters and cardigans that I believe were brought back by this [show]. I think its success has really inspired a lot of young people. I have a 6 year old who loves to sing and dance. She loves Beyonce, but 'Glee' is her thing. Their style is clean-cut, old-fashioned and I think it inspires young people to believe that they can have this way about them without being super sexy or super slutty. I love that it brought back collegiate style. I think when you look back at 2010 in music, we will always remember 'Glee.'"
Leighton Meester's "Somebody To Love" Video
NIKI SCHWAN: "I don't necessarily think that, overall, she's a style icon, but this video... I always take different pops from this video to show clients. Every detail of this video was luxe fashion. Leighton's in the back of the cab in this perfect hat, she comes back to the hotel room in this perfect trench and these high boots, then she's in this beautiful girlie piece. I have about four clients that I have shown different things about this that I thought were interesting for their artists. From a style perspective this was overlooked. Every detail of her styling was tight: she did this in a diva way and really brought it."
Pop Youth: Justin Bieber, Selena Gomez, The Jonas Brothers
NIKI SCHWAN: "Record sales in this market are incredible and have kind of kept the music industry alive. When you have those numbers, they turn into the licensing deals, and then apparel deals, and then the trends come from this force. Since the era of Britney, we haven't seen that type of reaction to young pop-stars. The girls are age-appropriate, they never wear anything too low-cut. Selena Gomez has really brought it. I have seen her on the carpet in Marchesa gowns; this young star just carried a $30,000 gown and did it well. And Miley doesn't always do that so well. The Jonas Brothers, I love them. They are like the young Rolling Stones with their little rock-and-roll style. I think Bieber has an amazing personal style as well - its obvious that he knows how he wants to wear things and does it well. I love that he's able to mix dressy and still keep it young and fresh."
Taylor Momsen's Rocker Look
NIKI SCHWAN: "Taylor Momsen tries really hard. She kind of took the whole 'Twilight' and rocker thing to the next level. I don't think she gets it quite right because I think that she tries so hard. Shes very young, and to have her in a bra and panties with her body out is inappropriate. Her people should be controlling her more. You can be rock star and you can be edgy and you can wear your S&M pieces while not showing everything. I think everyone is kind of like, 'What is she doing?' I think it hurts her career. She might be really talented but I don't even want to listen because she gets on my nerves."
Lady Gaga & Beyonce's "Telephone" Video
NIKI SCHWAN: "From concept to completion this video was dynamic. Everything that was going on epitomized style in 2010. Obviously Beyonce has this classic diva thing that nobody is ever going to touch and she was really able to bring it and then crossover to Gaga's outrageous style. I think Gaga crossed over to bring some high-end glamour as well. To me visually it was beautifully done from start to finish. Every outfit and scene was thought-out; it pushed everyone in the industry to take it to the next level."
Cher In Vanity Fair & At The VMAs
NIKI SCHWAN: "It's interesting that Lady Gaga brought the leotard thing back and Beyonce did [too in] 'Single Ladies,' but Cher wore the leotards first. When she came on stage [at the VMAS], to see her walk by in that... it was like, all you bitches better know where you got this from! She's an icon, and a lot of icons get lost, but I think she reminded a lot of artists that their style comes from somewhere. I love that she is the age she is and wore a leotard and hose on the cover of 'Vanity Fair.'"
Diddy In Vogue & GQ
NICKI SCHWAN: "The marriage of Annie Leibovitz and Diddy [for 'Vogue'] is amazing because they are both such sticklers about details. I feel like Diddy isnt given enough credit for his style and what he's done for fashion. From his first Sean John Line, I remember being at the show and every detail of every vest and every suit was amazing. The tailoring and the fit and the inside lining, everything was just so detailed and beautiful. He has that swagger and has that luxe over-the-top thing about him. He continues to push classic style in a way that no one else does. I mean, Diddy just DOES IT. The way that he has the fur trench draped over the suit with the perfect tie and the perfect cuff-links... timeless.
But in the same year he had one of the most outrageous editorial moments. His moment in GQ hanging from the chandelier with his tighty underwear on was crazy and retarded. Obviously he's just having fun, which was part of his press for the movie ['Get Him to the Greek']. In one hand, I have this editorial that is the most beautiful, luxe, fantastic editorial by Annie Leibovitz and at the same time you have this guy hanging from the chandelier not giving an f about what anyone thinks. Only Diddy can get away with it."
Justin Bieber & Kim Kardashian In Elle
NIKI SCHWAN: "Kim has really come into her own and has learned what works for her body over the last year. The style that they portrayed has that old-school 'Graduate' feel to it, and it really works for her body. She did an amazing job as this luxe older woman. Fashion wise, this was a moment styled so perfectly. I really think Justin had a moment [here] as well. He was looking like this young, sexy thing. He was wearing brands that were relevant, everything had credits. They were able to take samples from grown men's fashion and put it on this kid with his little kicks and his little shades. Grown women who don't have kids, might not know who Justin is - Now they're like, 'Who is this kid?'"
Ke$ha At the VMAs & EMAs
NIKI SCHWAN: "I was at the VMAs and I saw this outfit and it was literally made of trash bags. The fit was so poor I really could not believe that her team let her go out like that. She tries too hard, I dont know how else to say it. I think she's so incredibly talented and I think shes a beautiful young lady, but I think she tries so hard to be recognized. It's not a Gaga moment. I would love to see her bring on a new team to redevelop her style. I'm ok with her being wild and funky and edgy and this combo of rock and roll and whatever else, but I just feel like she hasn't really nailed it. At the EMAs she looked like an elf. It was bad from head to toe. She's her own fashion moment and its not in a good way. This is that moment we dont want our kids to look back at."
Katy Perry's "California Girls" Video & Album Cover
NIKI SCHWAN: "She's young and fresh and sexy, but she's sexy in a way that's not inappropriate. I think her style is [as a] pin-up for our generation and I love everything about it. Her album cover... who can be naked and still be that cute? Your Grandma's not even going to be mad when she sees her naked! Because its done in such a tasteful, beautiful, playful way. This video was also very Murakami inspired as well. She did things I couldn't believe she got away with because, again, shes just so fun and cute. This video took her style to the next level; this is what she is representing and she's standing by it and no one is going to touch it. As a style icon, she was so cutesy before, but this video made that 'cutesy' a definite it-trend."
Kanye West At Yankee Stadium
NIKI SCHWAN: "I think it's this 'modern Scarface' moment that Kanye has brought back to the table. But for me, in that red leather, he just overdid it on every level in a great and memorable way. The chains were bigger than ever, the suit was tighter than ever, it was leather instead of fabric, and he wore it all of the nights, even though both Nicki [Minaj] and Jay-Z changed. I think that he's an icon of our time; hes able to bring high-end designer fashion and translate it to the music community as well as the young people. He's received so much respect from the higher-end brands and has been able to show how much of a force the hip-hop community is to people who might not have otherwise given it a chance. Everything he touches is golden. There is no detail overlooked."
Nicki Minaj's 'Vibe' Cover
NIKI SCHWAN: "I think [the VIBE cover] launched Nicki's career. The cover is Murakami inspired -- the outfit is a Murakami barbie doll, very much like the statues that he does. We ultimately wanted to recreate the statues but we didnt want it to look too Halloween-like, so I decided to mix body paint with the outfit. Half of it is bodypaint, and other parts are leather. I tried to add an edge to it so it wasnt so girly. The original Murakami doll has long blonde hair, where as she wanted to wear a short orange wig, so it was Nicki's take on it as well. I really saw a transition while working with her. She really became a superstar in this moment. I think when we look back on it and she is in that top tier of superstars of our generation, this cover will be her first memorable thing that people look back at."
Lady Gaga's Meat Dress at the VMAs
NIKI SCHWAN: "My number one is the meat dress that Lady Gaga wore to the VMAs. There are so many memorable moments with Lady Gaga this year but the meat dress is so outrageous that it vetoes all of the rest. I was behind stage at the VMAs and it was disgusting. I mean, it was falling apart, it was stinky, it was literally MEAT. I was like 'Is that dirty!?' I wouldn't say that [her style] is the most fabulous or the most trendy; I don't even necessarily think that she starts trends, even though she brought back the leotard thing. I think that she has inspired other artists to push the envelope. [Nicola] Formechetti, her stylist, is a genius-level creative director and they have a magical relationship and I think it shows."
Star Stylist Niki Schwan
The breadth of Nicki Minaj stylist and Vibe Magazine Fashion Director Niki Schwan's experience working with everyone from Quincy Jones to Courtney Love compelled Schwan to leave styling in the late '90s to start her own brand, Lura Starr.
"I took a break from the music industry for a while," Schwan says. "I felt like it wasn't my number one for the long term, and I had an idea for a brand. So I started designing the brand and it somehow still brought me back to the music industry."
The marriage of a personal line and experience in music styling led her to one of her most memorable gigs. "I was approached to make a custom bikini for the David LaChappelle / Mariah Carey Rollling Stone cover. That cover was huge because that was a time when fashion was mixing with the urban market -- it was very crossover."
In 2009 Schwan was approached to help relaunch the magazine Vibe. "They came to me and said, 'We really believe that you are the person to rebuild this brand and the fashion department with us.'"
With the goal of putting Vibe back on the map, Schwan influenced cover concepts, resulting in one of the best-selling Vibe covers of all time -- the June 2010 shoot with NIcki Minaj. "I had never even met her and I made the costume exactly to her measurements and she was shocked. She said to me, 'I want this to be the costume that goes in my Hard Rock case.' Vibe has always been known for launching artists careers... and we were the first to do her in that way."
This initial collaboration with Minaj resulted in Schwan styling Nicki for her first album, "Pink Friday." "She wanted color and I made most of the 'Pink Friday' outfits. That was a magical day. Nicki really doesn't like to do fittings. She wont even do fittings for a video because her energy and moods change. You could fit an outfit for her and she could decide in two hours that she's not in that mood anymore. She's really artistic and creative to the umpteenth power."
Schwan continues to work with Minaj, most recently choosing Nicki's notable beige pantsuit at the VMAS. "She has a great sense of style and she's very avant garde. I really feel like it's obvious the times that I have done her in the last few months. People have been able to say on Twitter, 'Niki Schwan, where were you? I know you didnt do that!' The times when I have done her, people say it's had my touch all over it, and that's a good feeling."
Despite working with a diversity of clients and bodytypes, Schwan points out three important rules to follow as a stylist:
1. FIT
"Fit is essential. I think so many times people want to wear a certain look or a certain style but its just not right for their body. As women we are all paranoid about being fat. I really studied how vintage fashions are built out how the undergarments are supposed to work -- even before Spanx hit I was using girdles. If I have to take less money to have a tailor on site, I do, because I would sooner ensure that my fit is going to be right than not."
2. TIMELESSNESS
"Number two is that I really like to make sure that whatever we are doing is current so the artist can translate the look as a current trend as well as have a timeless, classic appeal. I really want someone in 20 years to look at this and say, 'That sh*t is FLY! Thats Hot!' Not like, 'What were they thinking!'"
3. COMFORT
"Some women are more patient to wear things that are less comfortable than others. Nicki Minaj always likes to be comfortable. She wont even squeeze herself into something even if she really needs to get into it. While some women are more like, 'OK, Ill wear those shoes even if they kill my feet because they are hot.' Comfort affects our mood. If you can't breathe or if your feet are killing you it translates in the pictures. I try and find ways that make the picture look really hot and dynamic while still being comfortable."
Source: Rachel Been, N.Y. | Billboard.com | December 22, 2010 1:00 EST
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